A ginger bug is a fermentation starter made from fresh ginger, sugar, and water that captures wild yeasts and beneficial bacteria from the ginger’s skin. Similar to a sourdough starter for bread, a ginger bug creates natural carbonation in homemade sodas and fermented beverages without commercial yeast.

When properly activated over 5-7 days, your ginger bug develops a rich ecosystem of lactic acid bacteria and yeasts. Research published in Food Chemistry shows that a ginger bug fermented for 96 hours produces the most consistent results, creating a reliable starter culture that gives you perfect carbonation every single time.

Unlike store-bought sodas or commercial yeast, a ginger bug harnesses wild fermentation—the same ancient process used for thousands of years to create naturally fizzy drinks. The best part? Once you’ve made one, you can keep it alive indefinitely with simple weekly feedings.

This is a lovely piece written by Jennifer Helen

Why Use a Ginger Bug in Wild Fermentation?

Ginger bug activated for 96 hours develops a rich mix of beneficial microbes, including lactic acid bacteria and yeasts, which produce a stronger, more consistent ferment, research in Food Chemistry reveals. Ginger bug (made from fresh ginger, sugar and water) is great for wild soda because the living microbes driving fermentation are unpredictable by nature and it’s therefore too easy to end up with flat soda one time or too much fizz the next. This is a strong starter culture you can build at home to give you reliable carbonation every time. The float test also tells you exactly when the ginger bug’s at peak activity and ready to use, and you just need to keep it fed to always have this amazing starter ready to go.

How to Make a Ginger Bug: Step-by-Step Recipe

Ingredients You’ll Need

For Starting Your Ginger Bug:

• 1-2 inches fresh ginger, unpeeled (organic preferred)
• 2 tablespoons white sugar (or organic cane sugar)
• 1 cup spring or filtered water (not tap water)
• 1 clean glass jar (pint-sized or larger)
• Muslin cloth or coffee filter
• Rubber band

For Daily Feedings (Days 2-7):

• 1 tablespoon fresh grated ginger daily
• 1 tablespoon white sugar daily
• Splash of water as needed

Steps to make your Ginger Bug

Grate a smallish piece of fresh ginger and add it to a clean jar along with two tablespoons of white sugar and a cup of fresh water.

Use spring or mineral water and not tap water. Chlorine is bad for fermentation.

Then cover the jar with muslin cloth secured with a rubber band and leave it at room temperature for several days.

Once a day everyday, add another tablespoon of grated ginger and a tablespoon of sugar and a splash of water.

By day five or seven, you should see bubbles after feeding and that means your starter’s ready. But if not, just keep feeding it until it does have bubbles.

Don’t worry about all the sugar you’re adding as the yeast eats most of it during fermentation, so what you’re left with is actually far lower in sugar than a regular fizzy drink. That’s especially good news if you’re watching your weight. You tend to get food cravings because sugar spikes and crashes your blood sugar, and research shows that people who lost more than 5% of their body weight over two years had less cravings overall than those who didn’t. GLP-1s like Mounjaro help with weight loss as they reduce appetite and stabilise blood sugar, which makes it easier to cut out sugar altogether. Pairing this medication with low-sugar foods helps weight loss stick long-term. Wild sodas are also an easy swap that cuts out sugar without giving up the fizz.

The Float Test: When Your Ginger Bug Is Ready

The float test tells you when your starter is most active and will give you the strongest and most consistent carbonation.

This is important because your soda will be flat if you add the ginger bug before it’s ready. Or it might be overcarbonated if you add it too late past its peak.

The float test takes the guesswork out of this process and it’s easy to do. Just take a spoon of your starter and drop it into a glass of room temperature water. If it floats, the yeast is full of CO2 and active enough to carbonate your sodas properly. Don’t worry if it sinks though. Just leave it a few hours and test again.

It’s best to feed your starter the night before you want to brew your wild soda. In the morning, it’ll likely be at its peak and ready to pass the test.

How to Store and Maintain Your Ginger Bug – Keeping it Alive

Keep the jar covered in the fridge to store it properly in between brews. The cold will slow the yeast down without killing it. Also feed the ginger bug once a week with a tablespoon of grated ginger, sugar and water.

Leave it out on the counter for a few hours after feeding before you put it back in the fridge. This is so the yeast has a chance to eat the sugar and stay active and not go dormant in the cold.

Feed it regularly and the yeast colony will become stronger and more established over time. This will give you the perfect carbonation you want for your wild sodas every time you brew them.

A ginger bug can help you brew consistent wild sodas every time. Once you have one on the go, it’s easy to keep up with it and you’ll never go back to buying fizzy drinks again.

Ways to Use Your Ginger Bug

Once your ginger bug passes the float test, you have a versatile fermentation tool. Here’s what you can make:

Naturally Carbonated Ginger Beer
The most traditional use. Mix 1/4 cup active ginger bug with sweetened ginger tea, bottle it, and ferment for 2-3 days for fizzy homemade ginger beer.

Fruit-Flavored Wild Sodas
Create strawberry soda, lemon-lime fizz, or apple sparkler by adding your ginger bug to fruit juice mixtures. The natural fruit sugars provide food for fermentation.

Root Beer and Herbal Sodas
Use your ginger bug as the starter for traditional root beer made with sassafras, sarsaparilla, and other roots and herbs.

Fermented Lemonade
Add 1/4 cup ginger bug to homemade lemonade and ferment in sealed bottles for 24-48 hours for a probiotic-rich, fizzy summer drink.

Starter for Other Ferments
Some fermenters use ginger bug liquid to kickstart other fermentation projects like water kefir or even as an alternative to commercial yeast in certain recipes.

Troubleshooting Common Ginger Bug Issues

My ginger bug isn’t bubbling after a week

• Ensure you’re using unchlorinated water (chlorine kills beneficial bacteria)
• Check that your room temperature is between 68-78°F (20-26°C)
• Try switching to organic ginger with the skin on (wild yeasts live on the peel)
• Increase feeding frequency to twice daily for 2-3 days

I see white film or fuzzy growth on top

• White film (kahm yeast) is harmless—skim it off and continue
• Fuzzy colored mold (green, black, pink) means discard and start fresh
• Ensure your jar is covered but can breathe (muslin cloth is ideal)

My ginger bug smells like alcohol or nail polish remover

• This indicates too much yeast activity—add only half the usual sugar for 2-3 feedings
• Stir more vigorously to introduce oxygen, which favors bacteria over yeast
• If smell persists after 3 days, start a new batch

The float test never works

• Try the test at different times—peak activity is usually 4-8 hours after feeding
• Make sure your starter is at room temperature (cold starters won’t float)
• Use a fresh spoonful from just below the surface layer

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it safe to drink a ginger bug?
Yes, a properly fermented ginger bug is safe to drink when made with clean equipment and good-quality ingredients. The fermentation process creates an acidic environment (pH below 4.6) that prevents harmful bacteria from growing. However, always discard your ginger bug if you notice any off-putting smells, discoloration, or mold.

What is a ginger bug used for?
A ginger bug is a fermentation starter used primarily to make naturally carbonated sodas and fermented beverages like ginger beer, root beer, and fruit sodas. The wild yeasts and beneficial bacteria in the ginger bug consume sugars and produce carbon dioxide, creating natural fizz without commercial yeast.

Is a ginger bug a risk of botulism?
No, botulism is extremely unlikely in a ginger bug. Botulism bacteria (Clostridium botulinum) cannot survive in acidic environments, and fermentation naturally creates acid. As long as you maintain proper fermentation practices—using clean equipment, feeding regularly, and discarding any batches that smell or look wrong—botulism is not a concern.

What does a ginger bug taste like?
A mature ginger bug has a tangy, slightly sweet, and spicy flavor with a hint of fermentation sourness (similar to sourdough starter). The ginger provides warmth and spice, while the fermentation adds complexity. It’s not typically consumed on its own but used to flavor and carbonate beverages.

How long does a ginger bug last?
With proper care and weekly feedings, a ginger bug can last indefinitely. Some fermentation enthusiasts have kept the same ginger bug alive for years. As long as you feed it regularly and store it properly in the fridge between uses, your starter will remain active and ready whenever you need it.

Can I use ground ginger instead of fresh?
No, you need fresh ginger with the skin on. The wild yeasts and bacteria that make fermentation happen live on the surface of fresh ginger root. Ground ginger has been processed and dried, so it doesn’t contain the living microorganisms needed to create your starter culture.

This is a lovely piece written by Jennifer Helen – Thank You

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Scientific Name

Inonotus dryadeus 

Common Names

Oak Polypore, Oak Bracket, Weeping conk and Warted Oak Polypore

Family

Hymenochaetaceae

Habitat

An infrequent find in northern Britain but fairly common in Wales and southern England. They are parasitic and are found near the base of living and dead oak tree’s and occasionally on other broad-leaf trees such as beech and birch.

Description

The oak bracket fungus doesn’t really have any specific uses, apart from playing a vital role in the woodland ecosystem but they are amazing to find especially when they’re dripping with ‘honey’!

Identifying Features: 

Cap:

The bracket is up to 65 cm across and typically 10–15 cm thick. The upper surface is cream to rusty brown and velvety or hairy. When young and fresh, amber-coloured droplets ooze from tiny pores in the dimpled surface, especially around the edge. the liquid it secretes makes the bracket look as if it is dripping honey. Please don’t taste it, trust me the similarities end there! As the bracket ages, it starts to smell pretty unpleasant. They are more often found singularity but do sometimes occur in tiers. 

Its rusty brown flesh is soft at first, becoming corky and fibrous with age. The caps become blackened and cracked over winter, and sometimes persist for several years.

Pore/tubes:

The underside is buff in colour and there are 4 to 6 fine pores per millimetre. These are initially greyish-white but mature to yellow.

Smell:

Unpleasant especially as they age.

Spores:

White.

Known hazards

Not thought to be toxic but they are tough and bitter making them inedible. 

Potential lookalikes

Could possibly be confused with the Beefsteak Fungus (Fistulina hepatica) which also grows on Oak trees but this has a softer texture and oozes red juice when cut.

The Shaggy Bracket (Inonotus hispidus) looks very similar but this is usually found growing on Apple or Ash rather than Oak, has a much smoother surface and has a brown spore print.

References:

https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/fungi-and-lichens/oak-bracket/

https://www.first-nature.com/fungi/pseudoinonotus-dryadeus.php

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inonotus_dryadeus

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Common Names

Sulphur knight, Gas works mushroom, Stinker, Gas agaric

Scientific Name

Tricholoma sulphureum

Family

Tricholomataceae

Commonly known as the Knights

Click here to learn more about the Knight family.

Habitat

Ectomycorrhizal with deciduous broadleaf trees, mainly oaks and Beech and occasionally found also in coniferous woodland. Fruits from spring to autumn. Occasional in the British Isles but less frequent in Scotland. 

Description

Tricholoma sulphureum is a medium sized mushroom with a distinct yellow-green coloration and unmistakable smell. 

Identifying Features:

Cap:

3–8 cm in diameter. Initially convex, then flattening sometimes with a central depression and vague umbo. Bright yellow with brown/ purple tinges

Stem:

3–10cm tall, Cylindrical and slender about 1-1.5 cm wide sometimes with a curve. Yellow with fine red-brown fibres, with no skirt. 

Flesh:

Yellow, not fragile

Gills:

Yellow gills, distant and adnate to emarginate

Smell:

Often described as strong and unpleasant, with a smell of sulphur, coal gas, an ashtray or fresh feces. 

Spores:

White 

Uses:

In Food

Although it is not known to be deadly, Tricholoma sulphureum can cause nausea, vomiting, or gastrointestinal issues if consumed so is considered toxic and should not be eaten. Weirdly despite its awful smell it apparently doesn’t taste of much. 

Medicinal Uses

There are no known medicinal uses 

Known Hazards

Although it is not known to be deadly, Tricholoma sulphureum can cause nausea, vomiting, or gastrointestinal issues if consumed so is considered toxic and should not be eaten.

Potential Lookalikes

Yellow knight (Tricholoma flavovirens/Tricholoma equestre)– similar with a stronger yellow colour but lacks odour.

Some of the Rust gill fungi, which are equally non edible, have similar tones and appearance but have a rusty coloured spore print. 

Resources

https://www.first-nature.com/fungi/tricholoma-sulphureum.php

Edible mushrooms by Geoff Dann 

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The Red Belted Polypore (Fomitopsis pinicola) is a bold and beautiful bracket fungus found growing on dead or dying coniferous trees, occasionally hardwoods, throughout the UK and across the Northern Hemisphere. This distinctive polypore gets its name from the reddish, rust-coloured band that often appears along the edge of its otherwise brown, white, and amber-toned cap. With its hard, woody texture and multi-coloured, varnished appearance, it’s one of the easiest shelf fungi to spot in the wild.

While not edible due to its tough, inedible flesh, the Red-Belted Polypore is of great interest to naturalists and herbalists. It plays an essential role in forest ecosystems by breaking down wood and returning nutrients to the soil. In this post, we’ll help you identify Fomitopsis pinicola, understand its ecological role, and explore how it’s been used in traditional medicine and mushroom dyeing.

Common Name

Red-belted polypore, red belted conk

Scientific Name

Fomitopsis pinicola

Family

Fomitopsidaceae

Habitat 

Can be seen in all seasons as it is a perennial polypore growing for many years from the same spot. Can be found on old conifers also Beech and Birch trees

Saprophytic also occasionally parasitic. 

Very rare in Britain but common in Scandinavia and Slovenia.  

Identifying Features:

There is a characteristic orange/ red band between the new growth and previous years growth which is easily recognisable and a key feature.

Hoof shaped bracket fungus that grows directly off wood, no distinguishable stem, broadly attached to the host tree.

Upperside:

Hoof or shelf shaped, varies in colour and ratios of colour but will be darker coloured on the older portion where it attaches to the tree in either dark grey, slate or even purple tones and then an orange/ red band on the rim is most often seen but is not always present, then followed by a white band where the upper surface meets underside. Younger specimens can display more orange. The surface has radial band like ridges (zonate) which have accumulated with subsequent years growth. It has a firm woody texture, smooth and shiny with a layer of resin that melts if a flame is put to it.They can reach 30 cm across.

Underside:

Polypore- lots of tiny holes like sponge which are at the end of tubes this is the structure that releases the spores. White in colour which hardly bruises, ageing a yellow brown.

Smell:

Can vary from unpleasant and sour to water melon rind.

Spores:

Light lemon yellow, released in late summer autumn.

Uses/ edibility

Inedible as its very hard and bitter so not a culinary mushroom,  but it has a have a huge array of medicinal properties it has been attributed to which generally are obtained from making an extraction or drying and powdering the conk.

Immune modulating from the polysaccaride content, broadly anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties have been used by our ancestors from many regions of the world.

A study on mice in 2020 showed it has anti-diabetic potential and research is continuing.

Was dried powdered and put on wounds as it would help stop bleeding, reduce chance of infection and aid healing

Has been used historically as a tinder to help carry an ember to the next settlement.

If found best left as it is very rare.

Known Hazards

none

Potential lookalikes 

Hoof fungus- (Fomes fomentarius) The red/orange belt is not always visible making it easier to mistake for the hoof fungus which is the same hoof shape but lacking the coloured band.

Ganoderma’s . This is a genus or several resinous bracket fungi that can also look very similar, you can tell them apart as Ganoderma’s have a heavy rust brown spore deposit which is usually visible on and around the fungi. Many Ganoderma’s underside also bruises a light brown.

Extra Note

Pinicola stands for growing on pine trees.

To tell the age of a conk you cut it open and count how many bands of tubes there are, each band represents a year (or seasons) growth.

Has been used in Korean and Chinese folk medicine for cancer prevention and anti inflammatory.

Source

Nature-first.com

Edible mushrooms by Geoff Dann 

Fungi of temperate Europe vol 2 by Thomas Laesson and Jens H.Peterson

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33389867/

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Herb Robert (Geranium robertianum) is a small but striking wildflower commonly found in woodlands, hedgerows, and shady garden corners across the UK. With its bright pink, five-petalled flowers, reddish-tinged stems, and delicately divided leaves, it’s easy to spot once you know what to look for. One of its most distinctive features is its strong, musky scent—often described as unpleasant by some, yet historically valued in herbal medicine.

Traditionally, Herb Robert has been used for everything from wound healing to insect repellent, and it’s still appreciated today by herbalists and foragers for its potential immune-supporting properties.

In this post, we’ll show you how to identify Herb Robert, where it grows, and the folklore and practical uses behind this often-overlooked wild herb.

Common Names

Red robin, Death-comes-quickly, Stinking Bob, Squinter-pip, Storksbill, Fox geranium, Crow’s foot, Roberts geranium, St. Robert or St. Roberts Wort

Botanical Name

Geranium Robertianum

Scientific Classification

Kingdom – Plantae

Order – Geraniales

Family – Geraniaceae 

Physical Characteristics for Herb Robert

Leaves

It starts off as a five lacy lobed leaf , on a long hairy stem coming from a rosette, but as it climbs up the stem you will also see them with just 3 lobes. They are bright green turning to darker green covered in fuzzy hairs. They often have a reddish tinge to them that gets more obvious with exposure to sun. Up to 6cm in size. 

They also have a pungent smell to them that I have had compared to everything from a sweet parsley to coriander,soap and even fox urine! Everyone generally agrees the smell is obvious.

For me, I just think smelly, red/green, starfish!

Flowers

Attached to a greenish red stem covered in obvious hairs. It has star shaped with 5 bright pink/purple petals with white tints; as if painted with gentle brush strokes. They are around 1cm in size.

Seeds

They have seed capsules or ‘Fruits’ that are very hairy, green-red; they are  obviously beaked (almost like a Hummingbird’s head), they are ridged and also hairy. About 1-2cm in length.

The seeds can travel over 20ft from the parent plant, survive travelling in rivers or streams to new areas, the hairs also can act like Velcro attaching itself to animals, insects and even humans.

The seeds can live without growing, just lying on the ground for over 6 years!

Roots

Very small in comparison to the plant size (about 30-40cm); they are thin, wispy and fibrous. Allowing them to grow in generally small, compact, inhospitable places.

Habitat

Woodlands, field edges, rocks and walls, gardens. It does prefer shady areas, however to be honest it will grow almost anywhere (as any gardener will tell you). It can be seen growing in pavements and walls in most urban places; I once saw it growing from the rear bumper of a bus!

Known Hazards 

It is known for its antibiotic, antiviral and antioxidant properties. As a result this could change the viscosity of your blood if on blood thinners, so please consult your doctor before excess consumption. 

There are no other known hazards associated with this plant other than the fact that it is more often than not viewed as a weed; therefore be mindful of where you pick this plant to avoid harmful chemical treatments.

Herb Robert Could be Confused with

This plant is very easily identified, however the flower can be very similar to that of other  geranium species such as Hedgerow Cranesbill and Dove’s foot Cranesbill.

Always use the leaf characteristics to help you avoid confusion.

Again- Smelly, Red/Green, Starfish works best for me.

Edible Uses for Herb Robert

From an edibility point of view, it’s a bit of a Marmite plant; I know loads of people who enjoy it and lots that hate it! If you like the smell, give it a taste and see what you think. 

The flowers make a lovely garnish onto savoury dishes, having a more perfumed flavour.

The leaves can be used in a variety of ways; within salads, as a herb used in the same way as coriander; it is lovely in flat breads/naans etc. It can also be used as a pot herb for soups and stews. It could be used in pesto and other sauces. 

It also makes a lovely herbal tea used both dried and fresh. 

Just remember to try it first as it often gets mixed reviews!

Notes on Herbal Uses of Herb Robert

In traditional herbal medicine this plant has been used for many ailments such as sore throats, stomach upsets; dysentery, toothache, headaches,  improved liver function that was usually taken in the form of a tea or tincture. 

It is said that this plant can be applied as a poultice to the skin to help heal wounds, skin conditions, to help to repel bugs such as mosquitoes, even being used for the treatment of nosebleeds as well as helping heal a variety of foot problems in the form of bath salts! 

It has also shown promise in trials for the treatment of colitis, chronic fatigue, and cataracts. It contains compounds like germanium, which helps cells make oxygen available which is being explored as a treatment for cancer.

However there is insufficient evidence to suggest its usefulness in these ways.

Please always consult your doctor about medicinal uses.

Extra notes from the Foragers

The name “Herb Robert” may come from Saint Robert of Molesme, an 11th-century French monk and herbalist, who was renowned for using this plant to help locals with medical issues such as dysentery.

Other potential origins could come from its association with Robin Goodfellow also known as ‘Puck’ in English folklore. A mischievous nature spirit, and jester. He was famous for doing many domestic chores and services for families; this is believed to be where the Cockney slang ‘Thats Pucka’ meaning good comes from. 

Be warned though; if he does not feel appreciated for his deeds though be sure to expect pranks and practical jokes, hence the ‘Horrid’ smell of this flower. The worst of his pranks was by way of a curse; If the plant is picked and taken into the home, a death will soon follow. A tad more than a prank if you ask me!

This goblin was the inspiration for Shakespeare’s character ‘Puck’ in A Midsummer Nights Dream!

For more on plants that you are likely to find in built up areas see;

https://totallywilduk.co.uk/2023/01/18/urban-foraging/ 

References

De, D. (2022). Knowledge to Forage.

https://www.rhs.org.uk/weeds/herb-robert

https://www.theforagingfoodie.co.uk/plants/herb-robert-geranium-robertianum/

https://www.first-nature.com/flowers/geranium-robertianum.php

https://kahikateafarm.co.nz/product/herb-robert/

https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-24/herb-robert

https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/plants/wild-flowers/herb-robert/

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Foraging is a great way to slow down, explore the outdoors, and make the most of what nature has to offer—right on your doorstep. Across the UK, there’s something to find in every season, whether it’s the zingy green shoots of spring, juicy summer berries, or earthy autumn mushrooms. This guide takes you through the year, month by month, showing you what to look for, where to find it, and how to enjoy it safely and sustainably.

Foraging in January

Christmas is over, you’ve already broken your new year’s resolution and the weather’s foul but believe it or not there’s still plenty to be foraging in January. Make the most of those brief breaks in the rain and burn off some of that Christmas dinner.

Oyster Mushrooms 

A mushroom that’s common and can be found all year around. It is dead easy to ID and usually grows in large, overlapping clusters. You’ll find them growing on dead or decaying broad leaved trees and stumps and they are a great meat substitute.

Click here for the ID guide for Oyster mushrooms.

Three-cornered leek

One of the first plants to emerge and to look out for, it’s a non-native invasive species that can be used as a substitute for spring onions. The leaves have 3 sides hence the common name and it is normally found in damp environments at the sides of ponds and rivers.

Click here for the ID guide for Three-cornered leeks

Dandelion root

Winter is the best time to harvest the roots of Dandelion, the plant uses the root to store carbohydrates over winter. As long as the ground isn’t frozen solid they are pretty easy to remove but remember to seek the landowners permission beforehand.

Click here for the ID guide for Dandelion

Spruce needles

Yes you can eat your Christmas tree but the flavour comes from volatile oils that have most likely evaporated by now so go out into the wild and harvest some fresh ones. Conifers are an underused resource that are available all year round and safe once you can identify a Yew tree.

Click here for the ID guide for Spruce.

Bittercress

A tiny plant that packs a punch, you’ll find them everywhere including your back garden. Use it as you would rocket or watercress for a spicy, mustardy kick.

Click here for the ID guide for Bittercress.

For more information about foraging in January click here.

Foraging in February

When we’re Foraging in February the weather tends to still be cold and there’s still the risk of snow and frost but on the odd days when the sun does shine it gives me hope that spring is just around the corner.

Scarlet elf cups

A lovely late winter mushroom that’s easy to ID, something we often find when foraging in February their only lookalike is the Ruby Elf cup that’s also edible. They get their common name as they were supposedly used by elfs as drinking vessels and I like to follow this tradition by filling them with birch sap. They hold their bright red colour throughout cooking so are great for brightening up dishes. Look for them growing on damp, decaying hardwoods, if you find a good patch they can appear in their hundreds. 

Click here for the ID guide to Scarlet elf cups.

Chickweed

A plant that’s available most of the year but perhaps at its best in late winter/early spring.  It can be eaten raw or cooked and has a mild lettuce type flavour. Most people will have chickweed growing in their gardens so rather than composting it, use it for its cleansing and healing properties and it’s also packed full of vitamins and minerals. The key feature to look for is the ‘mohican’ of fine hairs running down the stems which distinguishes it from any lookalikes.

Click here for the ID guide to Chickweed.

Nettles

Again a plant that’s available most of the year but at its best now. The leaves are packed full of iron and Vitamin A and D use them as a spinach alternative or to make a tea which is an amazing winter tonic.

Click here for the ID guide to Nettles.

Wild garlic

The first shoots of wild garlic normally appear in February, it’s a plant that seems to get more and more popular each year. The strong scent is a key feature, you can normally smell it before seeing it. Look for it in ancient woodlands, river banks and hedgerows, but remember to leave the bulbs in the ground and only take what you need.

Click here for the ID guide to Wild Garlic.

Lesser Celandine

A plant that’s not really used much now but one that would have been vitally important to our ancestors as the cooked roots  were an important source of carbohydrates. These knobby tubers are said to resemble piles, and according to the doctrine of signatures this resemblance suggests that it could be used to cure piles. It is often known as Pilewort. The flowers which emerge towards the end of the month are seen as one of the harbingers of spring.

Click here for the ID guide to Lesser Celandine.

For more information about foraging in February click here.

Foraging in March

We’re Foraging in March, the weather is slowly warming up and flowers are starting to bloom but the weather can vary across the country and further north there’s still a risk of snow. The Anglo-Saxon name for the month was Hlyd monath meaning stormy month. If the weather is terrible take some solace in this old saying ‘March winds and April showers, bring forth May flowers.’

Birch sap

One of my all time favourite wild ingredients, that’s only available for a short window(typically the last 2 weeks of March into April) Birch trees store their energy in the form of sap over winter and as the temperature rises and the tree gets ready to produce new growth the sap makes it way from the roots up to the new shoots. The sap can be drunk straight from the tree, it contains betulinic and salicylic acids and is a great tonic or you can boil the sap down and turn it into Birch Sap syrup which in my opinion is even better than Maple syrup. Read more about harvesting birch sap here. 

Click here for the ID guide for Birch.

Gorse

A common plant/shrub that you typically find on coastal cliffs and moors, it can flower at any time of the year. When there’s not much other colour around these flowers are great added to salads and desserts and have a mild pea flavour. Just watch out for the long, sharp thorns!

Click here for the ID guide for Gorse.

Hawthorn leaves

The leaves of Hawthorn are at their best in March before they’ve toughened up and become bitter. Add them to salads or gently wilt them like spinach. Traditionally the leaves and young buds were known as bread and cheese, they don’t really taste of either they have more of a mild nutty flavour.

Click here for the ID guide for Hawthorn.

Cleavers

Sticky weed, sticky willy, goosegrass or cleavers is a plant with lots of common names and one that most people are familiar with. It’s related to coffee and the seeds later in the year do make a good coffee alternative but March is a good time to gather the young shoots before they’ve developed their ‘sticky’ hairs. It can be eaten raw or gently steamed and has a mild cucumber flavour.

Click here for the ID guide for Cleavers.

Glistening Inkcap

A fairly common species that gets its name from the fine ‘mica’ coating on the caps, this coating gives it a ‘glittery’ appearance. They can look very similar to the Common Inkcap which is toxic so only harvest specimens where the coating is obvious. They can be cooked but tend to disappear to nothing. I salt them and use them as a squid ink replacement to make risotto and pasta dishes.

Click here for the ID guide for Glistening Inkcap.

For more information about foraging in March click here.

Foraging in April

Foraging in April, it’s one of my favourite months to forage, the warming temperatures make everything burst to life. It’s the month for fresh spring greens and herbs but there are also a few gourmet mushrooms too.

St. George’s Mushroom

One of my favourite mushrooms and they come at a great time when my dried mushrooms collected in Autumn are starting to get low. It gets its common name as it typically appears 2 weeks either side of St. George’s day which is the 23rd of the month.

They typically appear in grasslands and woodland edges, growing in fairy rings. They have a strong mealy aroma which is a key feature that distinguishes them from any lookalikes.

Click here for the ID guide for the St. George’s Mushroom.

Lime

Depending on where you are in the country, there are a few different uses for Lime this month, up in the North where it is a bit colder the leaves are perfect right now.  They have a lovely citrus taste and are an amazing addition to a salad.

Further south the leaves may be past their best and you may find the tree in flower. The flowers have a lovely honey-like aroma and are most often used to make Linden tea.

Click here for the ID guide for Lime.

Alexanders

The first flower buds are normally available from late March through April. My favourite  way to use them is to tempura them and serve them with a spicy relish. Alexanders are fairly common in coastal areas but they were cultivated in the past so they appear inland too.

Click here for the ID guide for Alexanders.

Bistort

An underused plant in modern times, it prefers damp, shady environments and is fairly distinctive. All parts of the plant are edible but April is the best time to gather the young, tender leaves.

Click here for the ID guide for Bistort.

Bramble shoots

Brambles or blackberries are a bit of a gateway drug to foraging. They are one of the few plants people still commonly gather from the wild and most of us spent our childhoods gathering them but did you know the young tender stems can be used as an asparagus alternative? You need to catch them while they are still young and before the thorns have developed.

Click here for the ID guide for Blackberry.

For more information about foraging in April click here.

Foraging in May

Mayday traditionally marks the beginning of summer and May can often be one of the warmest and driest months of the year, foraging in May can be fruitful. Spring greens are still out in force and the warmer weather means the next wave of edibles is just beginning.

Hawthorn

In May the hawthorn bushes are in full bloom. Their flowers are a signature of May and their thorny branches feature in May Day traditions all over the UK. The flowers have an amazing almondy flavour and are great added to salads, used in deserts or infused in alcohol.

Click here for the ID guide for Hawthorn.

Fairy ring champignons

A lovely late spring, early summer time mushroom, They get their common name as they grow in rings. The rings can vary greatly in size depending on the age of the parent mycelium.

The mushrooms contain high levels of sugar called trehalose, which prevents cell damage when the mushrooms become extremely dry. So even if the weather does get hot they still tend to be in a good condition.

Click here for the ID guide for Fairy Ring Champignons.

Ox-eye daisy

I think this is one of the best tasting flowering plants, the flowers and leaves are both edible and delicious.

I pickle the unopened flower buds and use them as a caper alternative.

When the flower buds have fully opened they are lovely dipped in a tempura batter and deep fried or they can be simply tossed through a fresh salad.

The young leaves have a strong herbal flavour when raw and I add them finely chopped to salads; they can also be cooked in a similar way to spinach.

Click here for the ID guide for Ox Eye Daisy

Irish sea moss or Carrageen

Carrageen is an increasingly popular seaweed due to its immune boosting properties, it can be found along most of the British coastline and it’s easy to ID. It’s a seaweed that most of us will have eaten perhaps unknowingly as it’s used a lot as a vegan thickener or stabiliser and appears in vegan milks, toothpaste and beers. 

Click here for the ID guide for Carrageenan.

Ladies Smock

A common member of the Cabbage family is at its best in spring. The flowers and leaves have a spicy, horseradish type flavour  that works well in a variety of dishes. Normally found in meadows, where it gets established it can become hyper abundant.

Click here for the ID guide for Ladies Smock.

For more information about foraging in May click here.

Foraging in June

Foraging in June can be really variable weather-wise, one day it’s hot and humid and the next day it’s damp and miserable. The summer solstice is towards the end of the month when the sun reaches its highest point, it’s an important time in the foraging calendar.

Elderflower

Grab them while you can! The season can be short for elderflowers but they dry really well or you can preserve them in a variety of different ways. Elder is a common and easy to ID tree/shrub that many people have growing in their gardens.

Click here for the ID guide for Elder.

Marsh Samphire

Becoming quite trendy over the last few years, it’s an easy and common plant in estuaries and tidal bays. It can be eaten raw or cooked and has an incredible salty flavour. 

Click here for the ID guide for March Samphire.

Rose

Rose bushes up and down the land fill with blooms at this time of the year. It’s a plant most people are already familiar with and the flowers of all roses are edible. If you’re a fan of Turkish delight you’re in for a treat. They’re nice added to salads or use them to flavour sugar and syrups.

Click here for the ID guide for Dog Rose.

Pineapple Weed

A non-native plant that’s closely related to Chamomile. All parts of the plant have a strong pineapple scent and flavour that’s great in desserts and salads. 

Click here for the ID guide for Pineapple weed.

Chicken of the Wood

If it’s been a warm year Chicken of the Woods often starts to appear in June, it’s one of the easiest mushrooms to ID and is amazing as a meat substitute. 

Click here for the ID guide for Chicken of the Woods.

For more information about foraging in June click here.

Foraging in July

July is typically the warmest month of the year, the hot weather can make finding fresh greens more difficult as plants focus their energy into producing flowers and fruits. Depending on weather conditions there are a few gourmet mushrooms around too.

Wild Strawberry

A plant that’s almost impossible to go wrong with. Look in woodlands for low lying plants with 3 lobed leaves and miniature strawberries. The wild version tends to have smaller fruits but the flavour is a lot more intense than commercially grown varieties. 

Click here for the ID guide for Wild Strawberry

Dryad’s Saddle

A very beginner friendly mushroom that you’ll find them growing on dead or diseased hardwoods. When young and fresh they taste like watermelon and become more mushroomy as they age. Dryads are woodland fairies that supposedly ride these fungi and they look a bit like an old tractor seat.

Click here for the ID guide for Dryad’s Saddle.

Chanterelle

One of the world’s most famous wild mushrooms, they are a lot more common in the UK than most people think. They prefer damp, shady woodlands and have a delicious apricot scent when freshly picked. Use them fresh or dried, they are also an interesting ingredient to infuse in alcohol.

Click here for the ID guide for Chanterelle.

Bilberry 

One of my favourite wild berries, think of them as our native Blueberry. Typically they are found on acidic soil at altitude growing in among the heathers. As well as being delicious they are packed full of antioxidants and vitamins. 

Click here for the ID guide for Bilberry.

Meadowsweet

A  plant that you can find most of the year but summer is when the flowers which are my favourite part are available. They have a lovely mown hay/almond flavour that works well in pannacotta, jams, wines and cordials. The plant was important in the development of Aspirin as it contains high levels of salicylic acid.

Click here for the ID guide for Meadowsweet. 

For more information about foraging in July click here.

Foraging in August

Traditionally the first of August marks Lammas day which signals the start of the harvest season which is perfect for foraging in August. The Anglo-Saxon name for August was Vueod-Monath which means weed month, as this is the time when they grow most abundantly, making it a particularly good month for foraging, gathering and preserving.

Hazelnuts

A common tree in the UK, that’s loved by foragers and squirrels alike. The nuts have to be picked slightly unripe as they will be taken by the local squirrels over wise. They can be used ‘green’ or left in a dark place for a couple of weeks to ripen. 

Click here for the ID guide for Hazel.

Blackberry

A very beginner friendly plant that most of us are familiar with. Packed full of vitamins and minerals they really are a ‘superfood’. Folklore says that blackberries should not be picked after Old Michaelmas Day (11 October) as the devil has made them unfit to eat by spitting or fouling on them, so get them while they’re still good.

Click here for the ID guide for Blackberry.

Apple

Again very beginner friendly, if it looks like an apple it’s an apple, although whether it’s one that’s sweet enough to eat straight from the tree is down to your personal taste buds. The true crab apple is getting harder to find, most you’ll come across in the wild are technically feral having grown from the discarded cores of cultivated varieties.

Click here for the ID guide for Apple.

Porcini 

One of my favourite wild mushrooms, they tend to start fruiting in August. As well as being one of the tastiest it’s also one of the easiest to ID. Unlike many wild mushrooms they can be eaten raw or cooked and the flavour becomes even more intense when they are dried.

Click here for the ID guide for Porcini.

Sea Purslane

A lovely and common coastal plant, it’s available most of the year but in August the flowers and seeds are at their best. Add them to Asian style soups and stews for an amazing salty/umami pop of flavour. Normally found on mudflats and estuaries, there’s very little that you could confuse it with.

Click here for the ID guide for Sea Purslane

For more information about foraging in August click here.

Foraging in September

Foraging in September is brilliant, September marks the end of summer and the beginning of autumn, it’s the month for berries, nuts and seeds. The wetter weather also marks the beginning of ‘mushroom season’ and you’ll see fungi springing up almost everywhere you look.

Hawthorn berries

When we’re foraging in September I find there’s quite a few in between ingredients, they’re not quite in one stage but not quite in another, lucky for us hawthorn berries have ripened up and are ready for eating – this is towards the end of September though.

An underused berry in my opinion, they are flavoursome and packed full of goodness. Lots of guidebooks recommend waiting until after the first frost but I tend to pick them as soon as they are ripe and freeze them for a couple of days to increase their sweetness. Once defrosted they’re really versatile and can be used in sweet and savoury recipes.

Click here for the ID guide for Hawthorn.

Elderberries

One of the most nutritious berries that we end up foraging in September, they are high in antioxidants and vitamins that boost your immune system, reduce inflammation and protect your heart, they also taste pretty good too! Use them in pies, crumble, jellies and liquors. While you’re picking them keep your eyes open for the Jelly Ear mushroom, they’re normally at their most striking now.

Click here for the ID guide for Elder.

Acorn

A lot of people are under the illusion that acorns are toxic when in fact they are an incredible, edible resource. They can be used to make flour and coffee alternatives or used as you would any other nut. They are high in tannic acid which needs to be ‘leached’ out first which is simple but can be a bit time consuming.

Click here for the ID guide for Oak.

Sweet chestnut

LIke acorns are an incredible edible nut, not to be confused with Horse Chestnut or conkers that are toxic but surprisingly can be used to make soap. Sweet chestnuts are traditionally roasted on an open fire at Christmas time but they can also be used to make flour, coffee, porridge and beer.

Click here for the ID guide for Sweet Chestnut.

Hedgehog fungus

These little mushrooms could be my all-time favourites, depending on the year we don’t always end up foraging in September for these and will find them later in the year, however, September is often a good bet for them.

I love their flavour and texture and they keep a lot longer than many other species. They are quite common in woodlands from September until November and are very beginner-friendly. The name comes from the ‘spines’ that cover the underside of the mushroom and are a key ID feature to look for.

Click here for the ID guide for Hedgehog fungus.

For more information about foraging in September click here.

Foraging in October

October is one of my favourite months to forage in, there’s fungi everywhere and it’s still mild enough for fresh greens and herbs. The weather can be really variable in October, some days it’s sunny and warm and the next day it’s an amber weather warning. The days are getting shorter and plants are getting ready for the cold months ahead.

Beech nuts

An underused nut in my opinion, they are plentiful and nutritious but can be a bit fiddly to collect and process. The nuts or ‘mast’ sometimes appear in huge quantities and can be used in a similar way as pine nuts.

Click here for the ID guide for Beech.

Rose hips

Rose hips are highly nutritious and tasty, they are particularly high in Vitamin C and played a really important role as a herbal medicine in the past. You can read more about their health benefits here. They can be eaten raw or cooked. You just need to be careful of the seeds that are covered in irritating hairs. I’d say Dog rose gives the tastiest hips but the hips of all roses are edible. 

Click here for the ID guide for Dog rose

Sloes

There can’t be many people left who haven’t tried Sloe gin, it gets more and more popular each year. Sloe can also be cooked and used in crumble and pies but to be honest they are quite tart so really gin is the best use for them. They are really easy to ID, about the only things they could be confused with would be other Prunus species but they are all edible. Sloes are distinguished by the spikes on the branches and the size of the fruit.

Click here for the ID guide for Sloe.

Bay bolete

Not as highly regarded as Porcini but in my opinion just as tasty and more common. Depending on weather conditions they can appear in huge flushes. They can look similar to other boletes but if you stick to the red or blue rule they’re a really good family to explore.

Click here for the ID guide for Bay Bolete.

Shaggy Ink Cap

These mushrooms have quite a long season but I think that they’re most common in October.They are a general saprotrophic mushroom, feeding on dead organic material and can pop up virtually anywhere. They are pretty beginner friendly, their main lookalike is the magpie fungus.

Click here for the ID guide for Shaggy Inkcap.

For more information about foraging in October click here.

Foraging in November

Traditionally November marked the end of the harvest season and the beginning of winter, but there’s still space to head out foraging in November. It’s really the foragers last chance to collect and preserve ingredients to last throughout the winter. In some parts of the country snow will already have fallen and it’s dark by 4pm but there’s still plenty of edibles to find.

Ivy-leaved toadflax 

A lovely, common and easy to ID plant, you’ll find it clinging to walls and rocky outcrops. All parts of the plant are edible and if the weather is mild don’t be surprised to find it in flower, which add a mild mustard flavour to dishes.

Click here for the ID guide for Ivy-leaved toadflax.

Wood Sorrel

When I show this plant to people on walks it tends to be one of everyone’s favourites, the small leaves pack some serious flavour. Spring and summer is when the plant puts most of its growth but it can be found nearly all year round. It’s quite delicate so I rarely cook with it, instead add it to salads, desserts or it makes a lovely gin ingredient.

Click here for the ID guide for Wood Sorrel.

Amethyst deceiver

A beautiful mushroom that can be found in huge quantities, they can be used fresh, dried or are particularly good pickled. Look for them near deciduous trees, they can be quite small and tough to spot at first but once you get your eye in you’ll hopefully find many more. 

Click here for the ID guide for Amethyst Deceiver.

Cowberry

Very similar to cranberries and they can be used in the same way. In Scandinavia they are  called lingonberries and are stewed and served as an accompaniment to roast meats and meatballs. Look for them on mountain sides and more, quite often I find them growing alongside Bilberry. The berries can be eaten raw or cooked but avoid the leaves as they are mildly toxic.

Click here for the ID guide for Cowberry.

Winter chanterelle

These little mushrooms can sometimes be found in huge numbers in November. They are mycorrhizal with broad leaved and conifer trees and I normally find them where the ground is damp and mossy. They can be used in a variety of recipes and have a deep earthy flavour.

Click here for the ID guide for Winter Chanterelle.

For more information about foraging in November click here.

Foraging in December

We’re all getting ready for the Christmas festivities but there’s still some space to get out foraging in December. This month also features the Winter Solstice which celebrates the shortest day and the longest night of the year. There may be less to forage but there are a few species that prefer these colder temperatures. 

Turkey tail

A mushroom that can be found most of the year, they start growing in Autumn so by December they’re at their largest and best. They have quite a tough, leathery texture so they are typically not eaten as such, use them to make flavoursome and nutritious stocks and teas. They contain many compounds that boost your immune system.

Click here for the ID guide for Turkey Tail.

Velvet shank

A lovely edible mushroom that thrives in the cold weather, they are common on decaying hardwoods throughout winter. They are cultivated in Japan and are known as the Enoki, due to growing conditions these look quite different than their wild counterparts.

Click here for the ID guide for Velvet Shank.

Wood avens

Winter is a good time for collecting edible roots, (as long as the ground isn’t frozen solid) The roots of wood avens contain the same chemical that is found in cloves and the plant is often known by the name Clove root. I use them to make a syrup that I add to mince pies, apple crumbles and cakes.

Click here for the ID guide for Wood Avens

Garlic Mustard

Garlic mustard or Jack-by-the-hedge is a plant that survives even the toughest winter. As the name suggests it tastes somewhere between garlic and mustard and works really well in winter salads. It can also be wilted and used as a leafy green.

Click here for the ID guide for Garlic Mustard.

Pine Needles

Pine needles can be collected at any time of the year but while I’m out collecting foliage for Christmas wreaths and displays I grab a few handfuls for their medicinal qualities. They are very high in vitamin C and are good for fighting infections, coughs and sore throats as well as combating fatigue. Just leave a small handful in boiling water for 5 minutes and drink it as a tea.

Click here for the ID guide for Pine.

For more information about foraging in December click here.

Whether you’re a seasoned forager or just beginning your journey into the wild, nature offers a rich and ever-changing pantry right on your doorstep. Tuning into the rhythm of the seasons not only brings delicious rewards but deepens your connection to the land around you. So grab your basket, respect the environment, and let each month guide you to a new discovery. Happy foraging!!!

The post Nature’s Calendar: What to Forage Each Month appeared first on .

Common Names

Trailing bellflower, Serbian Bellflower.

Botanical Name

Campanula Poscharskyana

Scientific Classification

Kingdom – Plantae

Order – Campanulales

Family – Campanulaceae

Physical Characteristics of Trailing Bellflower

It is a low-growing, evergreen perennial plant, spreading freely by prostrate stems to form a dense mat of growth 8 – 15cm tall, exceptionally to 30cm.

Leaves

It is in leaf all year round. The plant has small, green, heart-shaped, serrated leaves.

Flowers

The flowers grow in abundance from July-September. It gets it’s name ‘bellflower’ from the bell-shaped flower buds occurring on the plant before the flower blooms. Once the flower blooms the buds open to reveal five small violet petals in a star shape.

Stem

Habitat

It is native to the Balkans and has become naturalised in Central and Southern England.  It is commonly found growing from rocky cliffs, walls, banks and crevices in pavements.

Known Hazards

None known

Could be Confused with

Edible Uses 

Leaves: raw in a salad although they can be little tough so lashings of a vinegary or citrusy dressing is recommended to help soften them. They can also be fermented in kimchi or cooked as a green. They have pleasant, delicate, refreshing sweet flavour.

Flowers : The raw flowers have a pleasant sweet flavour and can be used as a decorative garnish on savoury meals or can be sprinkled in salads and over cakes.

Notes on Herbal Uses

None known.

Extra notes from the Foragers

Trailing Bellflower often grows along pavements and low down on walls. Make sure you avoid dog-wee zones when foraging by picking flowers and leaves higher up on the plant.

The species is hermaphrodite (has both male and female organs) and is pollinated by Bees, flies, beetles, Lepidoptera (Moths & Butterflies). The plant is self-fertile.

Trailing Bellflower comes from the Dinaric Alps and arrived in UK in the 1930’s. It was first recorded in the wild in 1957.  Mountain plants such as Trailing Bellflower tolerate poor, thin soil so often thrive in urban environments.

Reference:

The New RHS Dictionary of Gardening (1992) Publication AuthorHuxley. Publisher: MacMillan Press

more for pfaf

/https://bugwomanlondon.com/2014/10/22/wednesday-weed-trailing-bellflower/

/https://temperate.theferns.info/plant/Campanula+poscharskyana

The post Trailing Bellflower (Campanula Poscharskyana) Identification appeared first on .

This Fermented Borscht soup is built around traditional Polish kvass, a ferment made with rye bread, beetroot and water.

Winter is a great time to be fermenting, as it brings new energy to stored veg at a time of year when fresh food is scarce. It is based on a Christmas eve barshch recipe from a 1952 book by Maria Disslowa: Continental European Cooking.

The book has a foreword by Dr Wit Tarnawski, director of a well-known health resort in the Carpathian mountains, in which he highlights the importance of cooking from scratch.

‘Home cooking cannot be neglected nor passed over with indifference, if one sincerely desires health for one’s self and one’s family.’

You can also try this infused with dried or fresh Hawthorn berries, to boost heart-healthy properties as well as flavour. 

Ingredients:

Serves 4

For the kvass:

• 250 g raw beetroot
• 30g piece of rye bread (about 2 tbsp when chopped) 1 tbsp dried or fresh hawthorn berries (optional) 500 ml water

For the soup:

• 1 litre chicken, fish or veg stock
• 2 star anise and/or juniper berries (optional)
• 4 bay leaves
• 250 g celeriac, or parsnip
• 1 onion
• 25g dried mushrooms, or 120g fresh mushrooms 1 garlic clove
• sprinkle of dill and/or pine needle powder
• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method:

1. Chop the beetroot and the bread. Place in a 1.5–2 litre jar with the hawthorn berries, if using, and cover with the measured water. Stir, cover with a cloth and ferment at room temperature for 3–4 days.
2. Strain the kvass, reserving the liquid, and discard or compost the bread. Rinse the beetroot and finely chop it.
3. Bring the stock and star anise and/or juniper and bay to the boil. Finely chop the celeriac or parsnip as well as the onion. Add the beetroot, celeriac or parsnip, onion and mushrooms to the boiling stock. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove the star anise and/or juniper.
4. Take off the heat, then grate in the garlic and add the kvass liquid. Finely chop the dill, if using. Taste and season well with salt and pepper, add the sprinkling of dill and/or pine needle powder, then serve.

Learn more about Rachel de Temple here

Fermentation is one of the oldest — and most magical — ways to preserve food and boost its flavour. From tangy krauts to fizzy foraged sodas, it’s a process that transforms simple ingredients into something alive, nourishing, and full of character. These recipes are all about slowing down, getting hands-on, and letting wild microbes do what they do best. Whether you’re new to fermenting or looking to try something a little different, there’s something here to spark your curiosity — and your taste buds.

If you’re hungry for more fermented recipes, click here to explore!

The post Fermented Borscht Recipe: A Vibrant, Gut-Healthy Celebration Dish By Rachel De Thample appeared first on .

This is a tea-based kombucha recipe, to which you can add lovely seasonal, garden-inspired twists (see below).

It’s important to create a strong, vibrant flavour before adding your scoby, as kombucha is a tangy drink and delicate flavours can be overwhelmed. 

By Rachel Dethample

Ingredients:

Our Wild Kombucha Recipe Makes 1 litre 

• 4 tea bag or 4 level tbsp loose-leaf tea (black, green, white or herbal)
• 1 litre boiling filtered water
• 85g raw, organic caster sugar
• 1 kombucha from a previous batch, or 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar

You will also need:

• A 1.5 litre jar or jug, for fermentation
• Cheesecloth or a clean tea towel
• Bottles, for storage

Method:

1. Brew the tea with the boiling water in a heatproof jug, allowing it to steep for 30 minutes -1 hour. Strain the tea into the jar or jug, then whisk in the sugar until dissolves (I tend to ferment kombucha in the Kilner-style jar).
2. Once your tea has cooled to room temperature, add your scoby. Pour in the 2 tablespoons kombucha or apple cider vinegar – this helps to kick-start fermentation; add more if you want to speed up the fermentation (or brewing) process. Cover with a clean cloth and leave to ferment at room temperature (10-22 °C) for 5 days to 2 weeks.
3. Strain the kombucha through the cloth-lined sieve into a jug. Pour into bottles and seal with corks or stoppers. Leave at room temperature for 24 hours to build carbonation. Then, keep in the fridge until ready to drink, or for up to 6 weeks; the longer you leave it the tangier it will become.

Seasonal Foraged Kombucha Flavours 

Blend the kombucha with a large handful of wild blossom, fruit or leaves, and an extra 1-2 tablespoons sugar (or honey, if using jun), to taste. Strain through a cloth and pour into bottles. Seal and ferment at room temperature for a day before placing in the fridge. For optimum flavour, drink within 1 month. These are some of my favourites. 

Spring:

Hawthorn or cherry blossom 

Summer:

Elderflower, Dog rose and wild strawberries 

Autumn:

Blackberry and fig leaf, Pear and wild fennel, Elderberry and Alexander seed, Crab apple and bay 

Winter:

Gorse flowers,Dandelion root, and Spruce needles

HOW TO STORE YOUR KOMBUCHA SCOBY

Kombucha scobys like lots of oxygen and they don’t like to be cold. To meet these minor demands is easy. Simply store your scoby in a jar large enough for it and enough liquid from a previous batch of kombucha or jun to cover it. 

Keep the jar covered with a thick, but breathable cloth vs a lid and store at room temperature. It will keep for a month (often longer) without needing any attention at all but to keep it happy refresh the liquid with newly brewed sweetened tea or simply drop a little sugar or honey into the jar – this will literally keep it sweet, as well as well-fed and thriving. 

You can store more than more kombucha or jun scoby in the same jar and if you’re lucky, the ones you have will produce babies – i.e. new layers you can remove and gift to friends (or experiment with in recipes, such as making scoby ‘jerky’ by dehydrating it and brushing it with a sweet, salty and spicy marinade.

Learn more on Rachel here

Fermentation is one of the oldest — and most magical — ways to preserve food and boost its flavour. From tangy krauts to fizzy foraged sodas, it’s a process that transforms simple ingredients into something alive, nourishing, and full of character. These recipes are all about slowing down, getting hands-on, and letting wild microbes do what they do best. Whether you’re new to fermenting or looking to try something a little different, there’s something here to spark your curiosity — and your taste buds.

If you’re hungry for more fermented recipes, click here to explore!

The post Kombucha 101: Everything You Need to Know to Brew at Home appeared first on .

It is winter my friends. The harvest is in, the sun is gone, the ancient inhabitants of this rainy isle would now be busy trying to preserve as much of their forage as possible to last through the dark months. 

Drying, salting, fermenting, these processes would help lock in the goodness of the harvest and prevent spoilage as much as possible by making conditions hostile for unhelpful bacteria and moulds.

Here I present a recipe to help keep Vitamin D deprived immune systems functioning over the winter. We all know that colds and flu are rife at this time of the year. This is a mad science experiment, where I have packed as many anti-virals and immune boosting substances into one drink as possible, without giving it an absolutely horrendous flavour. 

Please note, there is little to no scientific data on the interplay of the ingredients present within this recipe. There is however, a mountain of scientific evidence to show their individual efficacy when it comes to helping our bodies fight disease.

I / the company take no responsibility for any adverse affects of making home-made booze!

Why make Wild Mead?

I hear you ask. In fact, what is mead? Isn’t that the stuff vikings drank?

Yes, is the short answer. The long answer is that beverages containing fermented honey trace back as far as 8000 years ago, and could well be some of the oldest alcohol in existence. 

At its most basic, a bee hive falls into a puddle, the naturally occurring yeasts (in the soil, carried on the wind, living on the bees themselves) start to ferment the sugars in this water/honey mix. This soon converts to carbon dioxide and alcohol. The reality is, that naturally occurring alcohol pre-dates the evolution of man.

Along our evolutionary path, man discovered fermentation and its fun effects. In many ancient cultures, alcohol took on a sacred status and was said to be bestowed by God/The Gods, used in both ritual, medicinal and recreational aspects of life. The power of fermentation allowed us to preserve nutrients from otherwise decaying matter, as well as unlocking more benefits (e.g. live bacteria in fermented sauerkraut is great for gut health, brewing beer with yarrow is said to increase its potency, fermenting honey from heather flowers increases its protein content). 

I choose to mainly brew with honey, not only because it imparts a unique flavour into the mix, but because of the extra purported health benefits in consuming it vs refined sugars. Honey contains antioxidants, 31 different minerals (including magnesium, phosphorous and potassium), amino acids and pollen [Read more here ]. It exhibits wound healing and antiviral/bacterial/fungal properties. It is not just sugar!

This makes it a prime candidate for our winter drink. Fermentation will break the sugars down, while keeping many of the beneficial properties of honey preserved in the ferment. The alcohol content and anti-microbial compounds in the honey will extend the shelf life of the beverage.

Please note: Use single-source honey where you can. If you pick up a jar that says “a mix of EU and non-EU honeys”, don’t buy it. A recent study was done that shows most of this stuff is adulterated sugar syrup imported from China. 

Local honey is the best to use, but it is expensive for the quantity needed. The next best step is to locate something labelled “Polish wildflower honey”, or “Greek heather honey” and so on. These should be traceable to a single country, pure, and will have an exciting array of flavours that will differ from the fake stuff.

Primitive meads were sometimes made using the entire bee hive, meaning the fermentation process benefitted from other hive products like propolis, royal jelly and even the venom from angry bees [Stephen Harold Buhner, Sacred and Healing Beers]. We’re all about saving the bees here at Totally Wild, so we’ll spare their hives, in place of their delicious honey. 

The Other Stuff

As discussed earlier, mead at its most basic is water, honey and yeast. If you’re not interested in my mad science experiment, you can skip this bit and follow the steps below (omitting all other ingredients) to create a basic, but tasty mead.

Here we’ll discuss the other ingredients used to give our immune systems a helping hand:

Elder Berries

Not to be eaten raw. Foraged around September time, these gifts from the Elder tree have a rich folkloric history of helping fight disease. Traditionally, the Elder Mother, the spirit of this wonderful tree, was asked for permission before any part of the plant was harvested. 

She would respond: “Why should you be granted access to such things?”

The answer is: “Elder Mother, in time I will come to you, my body will be returned to the Earth and in that time I will pay for this bounty and help I request”.

The reverence with which this plant was treated by Pagan societies reflects the value it brought to their medicine. In the modern day, it has been proven that parts of the Elder tree, flowers and berries included, contain anti-viral compounds that help the body fight against disease [Read more here]. The berries are also rich in vitamin C which is another aid to a functioning immune system. 

Later, we will simmer these berries at 65-75 degrees C to destroy any cyanide-containing compounds present in them, while preserving the vitamin C.

Elder Berries before separation from their stems.

Hogweed Seeds

Hogweed is mainly for flavour here, but also rumoured to be an effective treatment for chest complaints.

Ginger Root (not foraged)

“Ginger is a great source of vital vitamins and minerals, including iron, magnesium, vitamins B6 and C, and zinc. These vitamins and minerals along with ginger’s antioxidant properties can help strengthen your immune system. Gingerol helps ease common cold symptoms, like muscle fatigue and sore throat. It can also help fight symptoms of the flu.” [Read More here ]

It has been found that fresh ginger has antiviral action against respiratory viruses in humans [Read more here].

Not only this, it tastes great in things like mulled wine!

Cinnamon and Cloves (not foraged)

Cinnamon and cloves are included mainly for flavour, but cinnamon does possess antifungal properties, so will be helpful to prevent our brew from turning into vinegar.

If you spot some Wood Avens while you’re out and about, the roots can be substituted for cloves to achieve the same flavour.

Turkey Tail

This is where it gets weird. Yes I put mushrooms in my mead. 

Turkeytail is currently the subject of some very interesting anti-cancer research. Some studies have shown it is effective against a multitude of viruses too, while provoking the body into producing its own defensive measures [https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/turkey-tail-mushroom?c=1483593010001#antimicrobial-properties ].

There is little data I can find on dosage when it comes to Turkeytail, so I did a rough calculator based on the info I could find, using a handful of dried fungal bodies for a gallon of mead.

Birch Polypore

More mushrooms, yes you read that right.

This amazing bracket fungus has been proven to demonstrate action against flu, West Nile Virus and even HIV.

It contains polysaccharides, which provide energy for cellular metabolism [P.Stamets, Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms]. 

Again, it is hard to find exact dosages for this mushroom. I settled again for a handful to 1 gallon of mead, as it is better to under-dose than overdose when it comes to these fungi.

An overdose won’t kill you, but it might give you a stomach upset. These mushrooms are also very bitter, so we don’t want the flavour taking over from all the nicer ingredients we add.

Wild Yeast

I created a wild yeast culture by mixing a small jar of water, a tsp of honey, fresh elderberries and some sloes, which are also a good source of wild yeast. After a few days, this started bubbling, and was ready to use to start my larger fermentation.

Wild yeast typically yields a lower alcohol content than commercial wine yeast, which is good in this circumstance. We need a level of alcohol content to extract useful compounds from some of our ingredients (e.g. the mushrooms, which have both water and alcohol soluble compounds), but we don’t want a level of alcohol so high that regular consumption will come at a detriment to our immune system.

Most wild yeast produces a wine/beer/mead of approx 5% alcohol. 

When the wild yeast dies off/goes dormant when the alcohol content becomes too much for them, they form a sediment in the drink, making it look cloudy. For fancy alcohol, we’d wait until the liquid has clarified before drinking. In this situation, we’ll drink it cloudy, as dead/dormant yeast is rich in B vitamins, another boost to our immune system, hurrah! [https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/nutritional-yeast ]

Some of our ingredients. From left to right, wild yeast starter, single source honey, dried birch polypore, hogweed seeds

Equipment Needed to Make Wild Mead at Home

In the spirit of our ancestors (and out of respect to my wallet), I have made this brewing process as primitive/low tech as possible.

For a gallon of mead you will need:

• 2 Demijohns or fermentation vessels
• 1 airlock
• 1 rubber tubing or siphon
• A gallon cooking pot
• A wooden spoon for mixing
• Enough bottles for a gallon of liquid (usually works out around 5 or 6 wine bottles)
• 1 gallon of water
• Measuring jug
• Optional: potato masher

Ingredients

• 1200g of honey
• Approx 20 heads of elderberries (collect the heads, then separate the berries from the stems – discard stems)
• Thumb sized piece of ginger
• 3 cinnamon sticks
• 4 cloves
• A handful of chopped, dried turkeytail
• A handful of chopped, dried birch polypore
• 1tbsp hogweed seeds
• Tbsp of lemon juice for flavour
• Yeast starter, wild or otherwise. Prep wild yeast solution a few days in advance.

My Wild Mead Recipe

I measure a lot of things by hand or eye. This entire process was experimental, you don’t need to follow it to the letter. Just know the foundational elements of how to ferment, have fun and don;t be afraid to make mistakes!

• Prep thy vessel

I am now beyond the stage of bothering to sterilise my equipment unless there is mould around, or I’ve just bought new equipment to use.

If your demijohns have yeast residue from a previous ferment, good news, that brown layer may contain dormant yeast, which can become active again in the presence of moisture, warmth and sugar. Some cultures would purposefully carve channels into the walls of their fermentation vessels to allow yeast to settle and go dormant, to be reactivated next time they were due to brew.

If you are more particular than me, then by all means sterilise your equipment with a campden tablet or a small amount of bleach.

• Bubble bubble, toil n trouble

Bring your gallon of water to the boil, then allow it to cool. In the case of using tap water, this will help evaporate some of the chorine present, reducing the chances that it will harm your yeast. 

Add your ginger, cinnamon, cloves, handfuls of birch polypore and turkeytail, boiling for 10 mins until the water has gone a deep brown. We have now extracted some of the water soluble chemicals in the mushrooms.

Reduce the heat to just below a simmer, then add your elderberries and hogweed seeds. Simmer at approx 65 C for another 10 minutes. Use a potato masher or wooden spoon to squash the berries and extract the most juice.

• Muh sugar, muh baby, muh honey

Allow the mixture to cool until it is just warm to the touch, 40 C or below. Add your 1200g of honey to the mix, stirring until it is dissolved. We do this at a lower temp to preserve the more delicate components in the honey from destruction by heat.

At this stage you should be waking up your yeast solution. If you prepped a wild yeast solution, it should be bubbling away by now. Give it a shake to stir up the sediment. If using commercial yeast, add it, with some nutrient, to a small bowl of warm water.

• Fill thy vessel

Pour the mixture into the demijohn with the aid of your measuring jug. This is a messy process. Most guides recommend passing the mixture through a filter to remove the berry husks before fermentation, however I left mine in to provide more food for the yeast.

I made sure to include the boiled mushroom fragments when adding the mixture into the demijohn, as the second stage of the fermentation process will extract the alcohol soluble compounds in the mushrooms. 

• Merry Yeastmas

Seal the demijohn with the airlock, wait for the demijohn to cool to around body temperature. Take the airlock off, add your yeast solution, and re-seal. Your vessel is ready, let the sacred ferment begin!

• The bryggjemann cometh

Leave your demijohn in a warm, dark place. In Norwegian folklore, it was said that the spirit of the bryggjemann (what we now know is yeast) will enter the jar at night and make it boil. By the morning, you should see bubbles appearing in your vessel. If this doesn’t happen, don’t panic! Fermentation can take up to a week to start.

Once your liquid is “boiling”, the bryggjemann has paid your jar a visit, and your liquid is now alive with his spirit! (The anaerobic respiration of yeast).

• Wait

Because of the complex sugars present in honey, fermenting mead takes longer than a normal beer or wine. You can expect the bubbling to stop in about 3 weeks. 

• Nice rack

Syphon (or rack) your mead using a piece of rubber tubing, into your secondary Demijohn. There will be sediment, berry husks etc. at the bottom of your vessel, syphon down to this layer and discard the rest of the debris.

• Bottle & quaff

Leave your brew in the demijohn for at least 3 months before bottling, or you risk incomplete fermentation, and might create some exploding bottles!

Syphon the mead from your secondary ferment into your bottles with the rubber tubing.

Your mead in this case will be mildly carbonated, as we won’t be ageing it long enough to clarify and rid itself entirely of CO2.

If you wish to save your yeast for use again, leave the top off the brewing vessel and simply allow the dregs at the bottom of the demijohn to dry. Your own household bryggjemann is now sleeping and ready to be woken up again next time you brew. 

A delicious batch of year-old elderberry mead, left to clarify.

To Conclude our Wild Mead Exploration

You can drink this mead for the pure pleasure of it, or use it as a home-made cold and flu remedy. I have been drinking my test batch each time I’ve felt the onset of seasonal unpleasantries, and can say that 2 x 100 ml a day has had a positive effect on my recovery. The only time I’ve developed a full-blown cold was when I stopped drinking it!

That said, my methods are completely unscientific. Could it be placebo? Yes. Could it be that I wasn’t actually going to be ill? Yes. 

However, it cannot be denied that this recipe contains a potent cocktail of immune boosting plants and fungi. I will continue to drink it with great pleasure, along with the 4 gallons of other varieties of mead that I made this year (more recipes to come perhaps?).

Connecting with the fermentation process on a personal level, creates an appreciation for the ritual and spiritual aspects that our ancestors observed during the creation of their sacred and medicinal beverages. Learning how to make an 8000 year old drink at home is a very rewarding process, and I encourage you to try it out.

I highly recommend the book Sacred and Healing Beers, by S.H.Buhner, to which I owe much of the knowledge imparted in this blog piece. The section on mead is a goldmine of fantastic information. 

Find more fantastic Wild Drink ideas here:

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